October of last year I attended a wedding in Austin, Texas, for two friends- Callie & Eli. They were married under an alter covered with sunflowers built for the ceremony by friends. A violinist serenaded the couple as they joined their party in celebration under sprawling oak trees.
The best part- I was asked to make the wedding dress.
I met Callie and Eli 2 years ago. I was new to Austin and they were studying at a small design school. We shared interesting stories and to this day it’s still hard to pull myself away from our conversations.
Callie is the designer behind BEAM, a textile collection drawing inspiration from desert road trips and her observations of the natural world. Each work begins as a painting then undergoes transformation as Callie digitizes the work and creates repeat patterns for printing onto cotton voile and canvas.
Callie and I met 3 times for her gown. We spent a few hours taking measurements, in fittings and planning the pattern layout. She chose Lace Wing (right), influenced by the intricate patterns of insect wings. We played with scale and landed on a smaller scale for the bodice and larger scale for the skirt. It sounds simple but neither of us realized the infinite possibilities for design with all the variables: pattern, scale, orientation, seams.
The result was more personal than anything I’ve made, a journey I would love to take again. – Céline
WildCraft Studio School is a creative mecca for traditional skills, plant medicine, studio art and craft, located in White Salmon, Washington. If you’re a dyer, chances are- you follow WIldCraft in some format. Founder Chelsea Heffner drove down from the PNW to teach a native plant dye workshop in partnership with Healdsburg SHED owners, Cindy Daniel & Doug Lipton. Chelsea and I met over the airways and I drove up to assist with an unexpected large class on May 31st.
Chelsea is a multi-disciplinary artist and Assistant Professor at the Pacific Northwest College of Art. She led the workshop and a native plant walk through Cindy and Doug’s wild gardens before harvesting several dye plants for the class to test. Among them were wild fennel, cherry plum tree, and black walnut.
We simmered the baths for 30-45 minutes before filtering them into dye vessels. Each student had silk and wool samples, mordanted with various minerals. They took turns soaking their samples in steaming baths- some experimenting with shibori. By the end of the class, we’d tested 7 natural plant dyes.
My favorite moment was a listening to a conversation between Chelsea and another participant about a weaving class she’d hosted. The artist and teacher, a Native American man, was reluctant to teach anyone outside of the tribe. He made an exception and taught Chelsea’s favorite workshop to date- a highly challenging, multi-day workshop on hat weaving with native plants. Chelsea said each student walked away full of appreciation and pride.
Follow WildCraft Studio School on Instagram, here.
Cindy and Doug’s home was an enchanting backdrop to the workshop. They built the home after returning from an inspiring stay in France and added sustainable features like rammed earth walls. Although they have an orchard and some landscaping, they’ve been working to restore the rest of the property to wild native gardens.
Interested in attending one of WildCraft Studio School’s Classes? Click here.
Juniper Ridge transforms the intangible wilderness into perfume. I work in our Oakland workshop distillery among a sharp group of fragrant women and men. Jungmaven is a hemp knitwear brand based in Los Angeles working to promote industrial hemp production that would reduce cotton growth that’s detrimental to the environment.
Jungmaven founder, Rob Jungmann and Juniper Ridge founder, Hall Newbegin, have been friends for a while. Two parts of a small network of west coast sustainable apparel and fragrance brands. I wouldn’t be surprised to find either one comfortably asleep on the beach or under a California redwood. They travel light and feel at home when they’re on the road, outdoors and sharing ideas.
We spent 3 days together in February at Desert & Denim where I discovered the potent dye potential of one of our perfume ingredients, Creosote Bush. I used it in my dye workshops during the show to the delight of the crowd.
It was Jessica Arkenstone, Juniper Ridge Marketing Director, and Jordan Vouga, our Art Director, who dreamt up the High Desert Tee. The project was underway with the return of the wildcrafting team with bushels of Creosote Bush. I transformed the Juniper Ridge loading bay into a small dye house for 2 weeks, sampling prototypes with various mordants. We settled on a worn desert green and celebrated the painted dye pattern.
The project is featured in Trail Notes, Juniper Ridge’s blog. Here’s an excerpt from my interview with chief storyteller, Obi Kaufmann.
When asked about the relationship between wilderness perfume and natural plant dyes, Celine says, “I remember talking to Joshua Tree locals – people who grew up there. They explained that the scent of Creosote is their memory of rain. When it rains, the steam carries creosote oils into the wind creating a potent musk. Only after experiencing rain in another landscape did their memory of Joshua Tree rain become meaningful. Scent doesn’t come in a singular form. It exists in the air, in perfume and (now) the fibers of our clothing.
“Scent doesn’t come in a singular form. It exists in the air, in perfume and (now) the fibers of our clothing.”
There’s no way to ensure consistency with natural plant dyes without chemicals. That’s why they’re so lovely. Each bath is the discovery of a plant’s life cycle and subsequently a new journey. Isn’t that what we’re all striving for? Carving out a unique story with plant dyes is exactly what Juniper Ridge does with harvest stories. No two batches are the same, each reflects a specific time and place.
Wanna check out the High Desert Tee? Click here to shop Juniper Ridge Field Labs.
Ancestry Quarterly is a print publication. The magazine’s writers and designers have three jobs- their day’s work, the publication, and a new and burgeoning creative agency. They’re walking the ropes and reaching always for more. AQ is a forum for that middle ground, the space between “day job and dream job”.
Lauren and Jordan, AQ Art & Marketing Directors, asked if I could help with a natural dye project for new tee shirts. We tested a few plants but decided on walnut for its dark color, lack of mordanting required, and availability. We harvested walnuts off the ground that’d been there for a year and soaked them for one day in a large stainless steel pot. The walnuts simmered the next day for 45 min and we extracted a rich brown-black hue. After a three man filtration step, and two hours of Jordan’s shibori work, the tees were added to the bath.
These weren’t just any old tee shirts- they’re Jungmaven. Made from drought-hardy hemp, Rob Jungmann’s knits are the product of years of experiments and going back to the drawing board. His goal is “Everyone in hemp by 2020,” and if you felt the hand of his tees, you wouldn’t mind replacing your Hanes with his hemp.
It’s easy to work with a label like Jungmaven as their culture and values feel good and fit with my own.
Two full days of work and one wash later, the shirts are marked with the twisted memories of Jordan’s shibori binds and the slow steel grays of the walnut bath. This is my second collaborative project with Jungmaven tees. The hemp and cotton blends absorb natural dyes easily, and each time- the end result in an expression of the dyers themselves. This time- adventurous, spiraling, layers and layers of complex skeletal folds.
Punica granatum or pomegranate is eaten for its tart and nutrient dense properties. It is native to Iran, cultivated all over the world and, because it is drought tolerant- grown in Texas as an ornamental shrub. I was surprised to learn that pomegranate inspired the naming of the grenade, from the spanish Granada.
Luckily, my neighbors grow 2 pomegranate shrubs that produce bitter fruit and they were happy to gift me inedible fruit for a dye bath. Remember, fruit is not the only indicator of dye color- leaves, branches and bark can also be rich sources of color.
Pomegranates are easy to harvest and fun to break apart (video below). They can be fresh or dried before extracting color. When I first dyed with pomegranate in Oaxaca, the fruit was dried. I soaked them in water for 2 days before adding heat. If you collect fresh pomegranate, I recommended soaking them for 24 hours but if you’re limited on time- soaking is not necessary.
Dyeing is a good solo activity but much more fun with friends. Natalie Davis is owner/designer of Canoe in Austin, Texas. She is a friend and talented leather worker and came over to test leather in a few dye baths. Watch her break up pomegranates for the dye bath. If you do this at home- wear protective eye wear and protect your work surface from hammering.
I mordanted fabric prior to dyeing and we spent the day testing materials and overdying with cochineal, pecan and indigo. Fabric was for 30 minutes to an hour and hung to dry in the hot Texas sun.
Steep Ravine is perched on the Pacific Ocean, north of San Francisco. Well preserved cabins with wood burning fireplaces dapple flowered inclines. Raucous waves crash below and coastal scrub forests maintain a protective perimeter.
My first visit to Steep Ravine took place in January for the Juniper Ridge Winter Redwood harvest. Each year the wildcrafting team returns here to set up base camp, hike out and collect test plants for a Field Lab perfume.
There is a wilderness hike and ecology lesson with Juniper Ridge founder, Hall. Each hiker builds their own scent experiment using a small cotton sack and native plants on their trail. The scent notes build onto one another and each bag holds its own beauty.
I set up a dye station using Toyon and Coastal Sage I harvested that morning. Raw silk
bandanas that I sewed and mordanted in advance of the trip are the canvas. They accept color beautifully and are sturdier for camping accessories. While everyone was hiking, I dip dyed their bandanas in the sage bath gleaning a bright goldenrod and sent wafts of sweet mint over the camp. When they returned we applied shibori to our bandanas and dropped them into the Toyon bath.
There’s Colin holding up his work and the bandanas mid-soak in the sage bath.
After hiking, dyeing and distilling, we retired to the campfire and ate stew under a blanket of stars.
Visit Juniper Ridge for Harvest Stories and Wilderness Perfume. by clicking here.
Juniper Ridge hosted a gathering in Joshua Tree back in February. The high desert weather can be unforgiving that time of year but it was clear and beautiful. Still adjusting to the cool, calm and collected Bay Area weather- I recharged in the hot desert sun, grateful for the opportunity to sweat.
Our small group from Oakland gathered quietly the first night then parted to get some rest for the busy days ahead.
The second evening sprawled out under the star filled sky. Steady whispers grew from the darkness into bustling talk and laughter. We fell silent when Melaena Cadiz sang by the campfire against a glowing rock wall backdrop. Poets sang and campers squeezed in to listen and share the campfire.
Each tent had its own origins. Pete and Tony of Tellason came in from San Francisco, Mats and Kari of Indigofera flew into southern California and rode in on bikes, Cate of Havstad Hat Co drove down from Oregon, Margaux and Walter of Peg and Awl traveled in with their boys, Noel and Fletcher of Gnome Life sold albums, and the Fellow Barber crew flew in from east and west and constructed a barber shop on the desert floor.
I hosted a native plant and indigo dye station both Thursday and Friday. I packed Mt. Tam-native Toyon and coastal sagebursh but the night before the event, I tested a different plant, native to the desert and a fragrant contributor to Juniper Ridge harvests: Creosote. Oily and covered in flowers, I submerged the whole plant in warm water and a golden hue poured out. Testing fabric samples as the resinous florals wafted over me in the steam, I bathed in the discovery of this new dye plant, hearty with color.
Everyone delighted in overdyeing the creosote golds with indigo. Rob Jungmann brought hemp tees from Jungmaven for the dye baths. Jody Dunphy of Second Nature Project made and dyed hemp paper from Jungmaven production waste. A few artisans dyed their wares. Morten of For Holding up the Trousers dyed his handmade suspenders, pictured far left in photo below.